I've received plenty of inquiries following the drivetrain anatomy last time, mostly regarding chain lube. It appears some of you HAVE been using crude on your chain - I kid, I kid - but seriously... So this is going to be a two-part, two-week post... The first will cover the types of lube out there and what they are designed for. The second will cover some tips, tricks, and secrets I've learned over my years working in the industry.
So quick recap, chain wear is primarily caused by two things: Contact with the gear teeth and improper chain maintenance. One of these is avoidable - I'll let you guess which one.
So here's the situation... The best lube will always be dependent upon the riding conditions... and yes I'm aware conditions may change on a ride... We'll get to that - next time - sorry. So this brings up another question, "Which out of the thousands of lubes out there suit the condition(s) the best. Now that's a loaded question - excuse me for a moment while I crack my knuckles to loosen up my fingers.
Dry Lube: A "dry" lube is going to be any lube that goes on wet and sets up dry. These include two sub-groups.
- Wax Lube: Wax lubes will go on wet and set up dry, creating a true "physical" barrier to wear. They are extemely clean and very slick. However, due to their superficial, non-penetrative nature, they will tend to wear off quickly simply through use, though interestingly, they do not wash off easily. As well, applying too often will result in a build-up of dried coats that can result in a sluggish chain action. This type of lubricant must not be blindly applied.
- "Slick" Lube: This type of lube will often be referred to by various manufacturers as simply "dry", meaning that it goes on wet and sets up dry, similar to a wax lubricant. They are often based on a teflon or silicone base, depending upon which manufacturer you choose. With a slick "dry" lube, there will be far less excess lube build-up compared with a wax lube, as the particle makeup of these lubes is much much smaller. The water repellency is not quite as good as a wax lube, but it will last marginally longer between applications. It is also an extremely clean lubricant.
Wet Lube: You'll often see this referred to as "cross-country" lube depending on which brand you buy. These lubes are designated "wet" because they will go on wet and set up wet, as they are not designed to dry due to an oil base. The benefits of a "wet" lube include advanced water repellency and long-term drivetrain protection due to it's thicker, heavier make-up. The downside is that it will attract significantly more dirt and grime requiring more frequent cleaning.
Some new lubricant developments that have occurred as a by-product of lubricant engineering in other sports is the introduction of ceramically enhanced products, produced by the manufacturer Finish-Line. These lubes are available in both a Ceramic Wet and Ceramic Wax. The benefits of Ceramic includes longer-lasting protection from the elements and increase resistance to stress from you and your drivetrain thanks to the nano-sized particles that more readily penetrate the smaller crevasses. The Ceramic Wet furthers the development of a regular "wet" lube, offering increased durability and is dubbed "water-proof" by the manufacturer. Similarly, however, it will attract dirt just like the regular Wet - though not to the same extent. The Ceramic Wax on the other hand takes the repellency and cleanliness benefits of a regular wax, and combines them with the particle size of a slick lube to maintain coverage and resist wear. In addition, build-up and residue become no worse than that of a regular slick lube.
This only accounts for a small percentage of the lubricants available. If there are any neat products out there that you've been using or swear by, please let the rest of us know!
Next time I'll fill you in on when and where I use these products and how I go about cleaning my chain without the use of my trusty parts washer.
Keep on keepin' on!
Cameron Hills
Service Manager
SpeedTheory
130-5403 Crowchild Trail NW
Calgary, AB, Canada
T3B 4Z1
cam at speedtheory dot ca
403.202.1030
2 comments:
Nice article Cameron. I'd like to try some of the ceramic loob.
I use 85W-140 GL-5 Gear Oil. It's meant for Limited-Slip Differentials.
It gooey, messsy crap, and I hate the smell, but I've got about 12,000km on my chain and sprockets with very little noticeable wear.
When it accumulates too much dirt, I take Automatic Transmission Fluid, and basically bathe the chain in it. ATF is thin, and is loaded with detergents and anti-oxidants. It penetrates well, and does an excellent job of cleaning the grime off.
Then I give the chain a good spray and wipe down with Brake Clean (Hexanol, or some other volatile solvent) to get the ATF out.
Then, I use a blow torch to heat the chain - to the point it's very warm to the touch, but not burning - while spinning it quickly. Once it's warmed up, I lay down some fresh 85W-140. The hot chain thins out the lube so it penetrates better.
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