Message From The SpeedTheory Backshop #5.5

So, generally, sequels are never as good as the first part in a saga, personally though, I think this one will be pretty good.  I wanted to share some tips, tricks, and secrets I've learned from others, on my own, and when on the road!

Before any lubing takes place, generally it is always nice to start with a clean chain!  This will remove dirt and debris and make the following tricks a lot more effective.  You don't need to bring it to me to do for you - I will charge you for it if you do, unless you're getting a tune in which case I'm all over it like... well... lube on a chain!...  I know lame, get off me.

Step 1:  Go grocery shopping.  Get a 2L plastic jug of juice with a wide mouth.  My preference is OceanSpray Blueberry.  Drink said juice (not all at once or you'll get a tummy ache).

Step 2:  Clean the jug and pop a bottle of degreaser in there.  If you're cool like me and have a jug of degreaser at home.  Fill the juice jug maybe 1/2 way up (don't worry you're not wasting it)

Step 3:  Pop your chain in there, and let it soak for an hour or so.

Step 4:  Turn on "Move This" by Technotronic and "shake that body"...  if you're at risk of damaging things or are in company that will judge you for this, maybe just play the song in your head (try not to hum as it will give you away) - Remember to shake the jug too and tighten the lid!

Step 5:  Use an old coat hanger to try and fish out the chain (that way you can reuse the bottle and degreaser setup you've spent so much money and time to create)

Step 6:  Wipe it off and let it dry - now you're ready to lube!

Now you say you'd love to do that, but you're chain is fixed on your bike.  Well in that case, come see me and I'll get you a quicklink for your 10 speed chain.  The SRAM 10 speed ones ARE NOT easily removable, the ones from KMC most definitely are and will fit the big three (Shimano, Campy, and SRAM).

In my experience, I've had the most success lubing the chain AFTER I've completed my ride - though I haven't ridden for more than a block or two this year, very sad I know.  Anyways, my reasoning for this is that by lubing it afterwards I find that I limit the amount of debris I pick up from the road, because the lube has been allowed to "dry" or "set up".  I also find that I don't get as dirty when I inevitably touch my leg to the drivetrain, or if I need to replace a tube/tubular.  So how do I go about this...?

First I'll clean my chain if it's at all dirty or if I'm using a different lube from a different company, if it isn't and I'm not, then I'll skip to the next part.  I'll apply one drop of "dry" lube to each link, beginning at the quicklink as a reference point, and do this for TWO cycles of the drivetrain.  I find that if I apply two drops per link AT ONCE, they tend to overwhelm the link and it gets messy.  For most riding days this will serve as a base coat and a working, usable coat.  I generally try to anticipate which lube I'll be riding on my next day and do everything before so I'm ready to go right out of the gate.  Since I am generally a fair-weather rider this is easy for me: "dry" lube.  If you are expecting rain in your riding forecast, then you will most likely be applying the next concept.

Now many of you have probably heard of the term "layering" lubes.  I have explored this technique in detail on many mountain biking trips and last August when I race-tech'd the Trans-Rockies mountain bike race, probably one of the most gruelling events for both man and drivetrain, and I have learned that it is not as simple as it sounds.  First, recapping quickly, "dry" lubes set up DRY and generally wash off in the rain whereas "wet" lubes go on WET and stay WET and do not wash off quite as easily.  So what conditions might call for layering lubes?  The morning after a rain storm when the roads are wet but will be dry prior to completion of the ride are such a time.  "So I put one coat on then the second and I'm good to go?"  No.  In my experience the most effective layering set up occurs when the base layer (as above, applied post-last-ride) is allowed to "set up" first, then the second lube may be applied.  The base layer lube will be "DRY".  The second lube will therefore be "WET".  The object is to have the early, wet weather attack the outer coat of "wet" lube - hopefully with little success.  Once the roads dry up, the "wet" lube will have become dispersed leaving the cleaner, "dry" lube underneath to carry the load.  Now, the alternative, I have found, is not true.  This is in part due to the nature of the lube.  Since "dry" lube effectively dries, and "wet" lube stays wet, applying a "dry" lube following a "wet" base coat will result in a mixing of the two - now both WET - lubes.  The result of this mixture is the dirt attraction of a "wet" lube - very bad -  with the water resilience of a dry "lube" - also generally very bad.

For myself, I'm heading to Whistler over the June 13th/14th weekend and will be setting up my bike with a base coat of Ceramic Wax and should inclement weather hit, I will apply a coat of Ceramic Wet over top of this.  I can do this right before I go riding because regardless of how long I leave a "wet" lube on my chain, it is never going to truly dry - assuming that I don't leave it for a few years unridden.

With anything regarding lubing your drivetrain, if it seems like there is too much lube, there most likely is.  If there doesn't seem enough, there likely is not.  Use your best judgement. 

Next...  have you ever replaced your chain and found that the new one is VERY well lubed and thought, "Aw, if only I were rich I could get a new chain every 3-5 rides"  Well that's unrealistic... sort of.  These new chains have basically been bathed in lube, allowing the fluid to fill every nook and cranny of space ensuring unparalleled performance and generally are not needing to be lubed for the first 300-500km.  Well you can achieve a similar result with your own chain if you want to invest the time, here's how:

Step 1:  You'll need to get enough of your favourite DRY lube to submerge the chain - 2 of the larger size bottles is usually sufficient - I've used both a regular teflon slick and ceramic wax (do not use a BASIC wax!). 

Step 2:  You'll need a resealable container, into which you'll empty both bottles - I find a mason jar works quite well (reuse this little "lube tank" as long as possible, but when the lube is looking grimy and needs to be changed clean it out and start over).

Step 3:  Submerge the CLEANED chain (it MUST be clean) into the lube, seal the lid (keeps the smell in, and the dirt out)

Step 4:  ROTATE the container like one of those gyro things at the amusement park so that the chain links inside will be moving around allowing the lube to get at as much of the chain as possible (shaking the container, if it's glass, might result in breaking and lots of yelling from your significant other due to the mess)

Step 5:  Leave it submerged overnight (this is just my method, I leave it overnight, you may find less time works equally well), remove from the bath and wipe off the excess with a rag.

Step 6:  Allow this super-coat to "set up" and you'll have the slickest chain in the field come race day.

If you have anything to add please leave a comment, there are always new neat tricks out there to learn!

Till next time, keep on keepin' on,

Cameron Hills

Service Manager

SpeedTheory Calgary

130 - 5403 Crowchild Trail NW

Calgary, Alberta, Canada

T3B 4Z1

cam at speedtheory dot ca

403.202.1030